Maui, Hawaii
For many islands, Hawaiian or otherwise, a single image is generally conjured when one is called to mind. Palm trees, sand, varying shades of ocean blue – you get the picture. But Maui refuses to be confined to just one mental snapshot. Its shocking diversity of landscape is a big part of why you could visit time and time again and find a new, unexpected vista (or even micro-biome) with each trip, irrespective of the fact that Maui isn’t a particularly large island. It is, however, a bear to traverse by road, but who cares? You’re in Hawaii. You’ve got nowhere to be except exactly where you are.
Know Before You Go
Whale Watching
Have you ever seen a whale in real life? It’s an experience that never leaves you, and nothing can prepare you for the grandeur. With some effort, the odds can be high that you’ll spot a whale from the cliffs of Maui if you visit between January and March. (You may also book a boat or helicopter, but be sure to go with a company that goes out of its way to respect sea life.)
Defying Sizes
It’s not exactly that Maui is big; it’s that its roads make it feel enormous. Depending on where you start and where you’re headed, don’t be surprised if it takes you at least 30 minutes – and perhaps much longer – to get from Point A to Point B. Of course, there’s plenty of eye candy along the way for you to enjoy, so sit back and enjoy the ride.
Yes, You Need a Car
A non-negotiable: You’re renting a car. (Anyone 18 or over can do so in Hawaii.) Public transit isn’t great on Maui, and hailing an Uber or Lyft can be a challenge – and a costly one at that. We promise you’ll be forever grateful for saving yourself the hassle of getting around without your own vehicle by heeding our advice.
Respect the Balance
City meets country, highbrow/lowbrow, call it what you will: Maui is home to a certain symbiosis when it comes to its terrain and, to some extent, its denizens. So go with the flow! Seek the experiences that make you happiest, and if you find yourself not loving your surrounds at any given moment, don’t fret. There’s a version of Maui that’s just right for just you.
Valley Island
Maui is sometimes called the Valley Isle because, well, of its valley, formed by the West Maui Mountain Range. It’s also got pineapple and sugarcane fields for days, tons of hilly terrain (of course), and its own dormant volcano known as Haleakalā. The volcano resides within a National Park that’s truly unique and an unforgettable place to hike, camp, or both.
Coffee Like a Local
Trivia time: Did you know the state of Hawaii is the only one in the entire country that both farms and ships its coffee worldwide? If you’re a coffee lover or even just a coffee drinker, it’s worth it to visit one of the farms for yourself (we like O’o). The beans are characteristically smaller than what you’re used to and some possess an enticing, almost peanut butter-like aroma. Don’t balk at the price tags – this coffee is well worth the sticker shock.
Can’t-Miss Neighborhoods
Paia
The final stop before beginning the Road to Hana, if Maui were a family, Paia would be the perennially tan cousin you only see once a year at Thanksgiving who you’re pretty sure is low-key stoned at all times. For this reason, it’s a great spot for people watching, and it also has plenty of good food and shopping, too. It’s located at the intersection of Baldwin Avenue and the Hana Highway, both of which are highly walkable – so park your car (and keep your valuables hidden, FYI) in the free lot on the Hana Highway to spend an afternoon strolling the many shops around you.
Makawao
Also known as the upcountry, Makawao is a departure from Maui as you know it. Ranchland, cooler temps, fewer tourists, and the island’s sort of secret cowboy culture are all on offer here, along with lots of tasty restaurants and coffee shops. Makawao isn’t a place that shows up on everybody’s must-do lists when they visit Maui – which is exactly why we think you should check it out.
Hana
The east side of Maui, aka Hana, is where you’ll find jaw-dropping beauties like the Seven Sacred Pools, the Bailey Bridge, and dramatic stretches of coastline, a lush rainforest, and countless waterfalls. It’s quite a drive to get to, but the drive itself is incredible, all winding roads and unspoiled nature. It’s also one of the wettest places in the world, due to the way it collects northeast winds blowing over the ocean. But we won’t go so far as to call it cold and wet. It’s just… cool and damp.
When to Go
Like many of our favorite places around the world, the shoulder seasons – April, May, and September-November – are your best bets for when to visit Maui. Though the island is always busy with tourism, it’s out of control in the summer and winter, so if you can swing a trip in an off month, it’s highly recommended that you do so.
Featured Local:
Iver Marjerison
Iver Marjerison is a food writer, speaker, consultant, and futurist with an appreciation for the farm and fascination for the fork. He is passionate about food system sustainability, infinitely curious about new things to eat, spends way too much time wandering around grocery stores, and is a self-proclaimed savory oatmeal connoisseur. His current projects include: The Foodist Bucket List guidebook series (Maui, Hawaii & Fort Collins, Colorado), the Food Flow podcast, and online videos where he rants about anything and all things food. These projects manifest themselves at: TheFoodFlow.com
Iver’s Must-Dos
O’o Farms
Take a tour of the farm, pick your own veggies, eat lunch at a table on the farm… doesn’t get more “farm-to-table” than that! Seriously though, this experience is beautifully done, the tour guides are passionate and knowledgeable about their farm’s culture and organic practices, and the tour always proves entertaining and educational. And don’t worry; the lunch is far more than just fresh greens! The farm’s outdoor kitchen employs top culinary talent, ensuring your lunch will be a level of deliciousness not soon forgotten. (Beyond their lunch tour, they now also offer a “Seed to Cup” coffee and breakfast tour!)
Paia Fish Market
This spot is an absolutely indisputable, universally loved, world-renowned Maui classic – and the fish tacos have pulled much of this fame. Since the original Paia location opened for business in 1989, this spot has done fish right, as evidenced by their always-long lines and admiration from tourists and locals alike. With their tacos, they keep things simple – beautifully fresh fish of your choice, corn tortillas, cheese, salsa, lettuce, and tomato – letting the fish speak for itself. For a local fave, ask for the Obama Sandwich.
More of Maui
Pacific’o
Located on Lahaina’s bustling Front Street, Pacific’O is a quintessential farm-to-table restaurant—they even have their own farm! And what better time for this hyper-local experience than 4-5:30 pm for happy hour, when the price and quality of ingredients can’t be beat? Their “farm to bar” selection includes specials on tropical cocktails, beer, and wine, which pair beautifully with their selection of some small bites (ceviche tostada and bacon-wrapped pineapple are standouts) and oceanfront views!
Nuka
Located in the no-frills town of Haiku, just upcountry from Paia, this Japanese eatery is known for its deliciously fresh selection of fish, masterfully crafted rolls, and creative culinary twists. While you can’t go wrong with any of their rolls or sashimi offerings, some unique must-try creations include their Lollipop Roll (which uses a cucumber wrapper in place of the classic rice-and-seaweed combo) and – though this admittedly has nothing to do with sushi – the Asian French fries, which pack a serious punch with wasabi aioli.
Baldwin Beach
Baldwin Beach is where you’ll spot many a Maui local on their days off, walking their pups and going for midday swims. It's a North Shore favorite with a baby beach on the west end where moms and their littles gather and play – plus "the cove" at the east end, where you’ll find people doing acro-yoga and occasional live music on Sundays. In between the two is a large stretch of perfection where you'll find people running, walking, and enjoying the beach’s mountain views. Stop beforehand at Mana Foods in Paia and pack a picnic so that you can easily spend a whole day at this beach.
