Lisbon, Portugal
There’s something in the air in Lisbon – and we’re not just talking about a sea breeze and the scent of grilled sardines. Maybe it’s the spirit of saudade that suffuses this city in ways both subtle and striking. You’ll glimpse it in faded façades and chipped azulejo tiles. You’ll hear it in notes of fado drifting through the doors of ancient tascas. You’ll feel it as your breath is taken away by spectacular views and relentless hills that make this feel more like a maze than a metropolis. You’ll start to miss Lisbon before you’ve even left, knowing that this kind of magic will linger but not last – and that, of course, is the essence of saudade.
Know Before You Go
Seafood City
Lisbon is a city of the sea, and nowhere is that more evident than on the plate. Pop into a no-frills neighborhood bar and prepare to be floored by traditional dishes that let the freshest local products shine. Bring a bit of that saltwater spirit home with you by grabbing some conservas, and prepare to forget everything you think you know about canned fish.
Take a Hike
Lisbon is known as the city of seven hills, but it feels more like dozens. The good news? Atop every hill, a marvelous view awaits you. Miradouros, or viewpoints, are scattered around the center, each offering a unique panorama. Some are quiet spots for introspection, while others feature buzzing sidewalk cafes. Trust us: the climb is always worth it.
Fado
This musical genre is the ultimate expression of Portuguese personality: emotional and nostalgic ballads that capture the soul of saudade. Follow your ears to the tiny tascas where local artists belt their hearts out to reverent audiences. There’s something especially moving about settling into a dark corner after an exhausting day, and letting the music carry you away.
Street Art
This city’s streets are a masterpiece in more ways than one. There are vibrant murals from world-renowned artists around every turn—but the buildings themselves are equally stunning, painted in every color of the rainbow and covered in antique azulejo tiles. Don’t forget to look down, where black and white tiles turn sidewalks into intricate mosaics.
On the Market
Whether you’re looking for seasonal produce, vintage treasures, handmade jewelry or literally anything else, you’ll find it at one of Lisbon’s many markets. Head to the Feira da Ladra for open-air antiques shopping, the Time Out Market to sample cuisine from the country’s best chefs, or Mercado de Arroios for local delicacies and top-notch ingredients.
LX Factory
The juxtaposition of tradition and innovation is all over Lisbon, but it’s especially relevant at this legendary cultural hub. A former industrial area has been transformed into a mecca of eclectic cafes, bars and local shops. Expect everything from tacos and tattoos to a dojo and drag shows. Don’t miss Ler Devagar, one of the world’s most beautiful bookshops.
Can’t-Miss Neighborhoods
Alfama
This is the historical heart of Lisbon, packed with winding cobblestone alleyways. Be prepared for a bit of a leg workout—if you can make it all the way to the top, you’ll be rewarded with the medieval castle of São Jorge and incredible views.
Estrela
This charming neighborhood has a residential vibe, with tranquil green spaces like the Jardim da Estrela providing welcome shade. Best of all, it’s packed with hidden gems and local hangouts, from cozy cafes and craft beer bars to not-so-secret speakeasies.
Arroios
Recently named the world’s coolest neighborhood (yes, really), Arroios is where everyone wants to be. This is where locals go for a fun night out or a simple stroll up Avenida Almirante Reis. Local businesses abound, from second-hand bookshops to vegan buffets.
When to Go
To avoid the crowds that descend on Lisbon in the summer, plan a visit in late spring or early autumn. The sun shines all year round, but these months offer a balance of warm weather and relatively relaxing vibes. Temperatures are high enough to enjoy the nearby beaches, while avoiding the heavy humidity of July and August.
If you’re feeling a bit braver, every June the streets of Graça and Alfama come alive to celebrate the festival of Santo António. Think street food, folk music and parties that last all night—every night. Don’t leave without sampling freshly grilled sardines and caldo verde.
Featured Local: Melissa Haun
I’m Melissa, a freelance writer, translator and tour guide. I was born and raised in Asheville, NC, and lived in both Buenos Aires and Madrid before falling in love with Lisbon. I’m obsessed with discovering the connections between food, culture and language—and of course, sampling every local specialty. You’ll usually find me sitting in the sun, surfing Portugal’s incredible waves, snacking on a pastry or sipping some vinho verde.
Melissa’s Must-Dos
Praça do Comércio
This sprawling square is the stuff of postcards and paintings, set right beside the river in the heart of the city. Spend some time soaking up the sun and enjoying a cooling sea breeze, not to mention some truly world-class people watching. Take a pass on the restaurant terraces in the square; after enjoying the scenery, you’re better off heading to Alfama or Bairro Alto for a more authentic taste of the local culinary culture.
Ginjinha Sem Rival
Ginjinha is a strong and sweet liqueur made from sour cherries, which packs a surprising punch. The best place to try it is Ginjinha Sem Rival, a tiny family-owned shop that’s been here for almost 200 years. You only have one choice to make: with cherries or without? Always go for cherries, but watch out for the pits! If you’re feeling adventurous, grab a glass of an even more unique house specialty: Eduardino, a mixture of ginjinha and anise liqueur.
Melissa’s Recs
Pink Street
If you’re looking for nightlife, you’re in the right place. Located in the riverside district of Cais do Sodré, Lisbon’s most infamous street brings to mind the yellow brick road—except, of course, it’s bubblegum pink. If you want to party, visit after dark and join a raucous crowd of revelers. But here’s a secret: it’s much more charming by day, when you can grab an outdoor table and sip a craft cocktail.
Manteigaria
You can’t visit Portugal without sampling its most legendary pastry: the pastel de nata, or custard tart. Lisbon’s best can be found at Manteigaria, a specialized shop that turns out these decadent delicacies by the dozen. Make sure it’s served warm, straight out of the oven, and sprinkled with cinnamon and powdered sugar. A super strong espresso provides the perfect contrast for this quintessentially Portuguese snack.
Dois Corvos
This family-owned brewery is based a bit outside the city center, but the journey is worth it to visit one of the first—and best—taprooms in the country. Take a guided tour to see the fermentation tanks and bottling process, then settle into the tasting room to enjoy no fewer than 17 taps. There’s a reason this place has won so many awards. It’s at the forefront of Portugal’s craft beer movement, and has retained its authenticity and innovative style. Try the Avenida blonde ale, the Hello Nasty dry-hopped sour, or the Abominable Snowman seasonal spiced milk stout.
