Dubai
Irrespective of whether you’ve actually been before, it’s safe to assume you’ve got a preconceived notion of what a traveler can expect to find in Dubai. Maybe it’s accurate, in part. But whatever you’ve heard about this Emirati empire is only a fraction of the big picture. At its core, Dubai is a new world experiment in city-building. It’s the epitome of Third Culture and a paragon of how to reconstruct a metropolitan identity after having been robbed of one. Like any other place in the world, it comes with its ups and downs, but the city – which serves as a gateway to the Indian Subcontinent, North/East/South Africa, and the wider Middle East – is an enigma worth experiencing in all its imperfect, resplendent glory.
Know Before You Go
Getting Around
While there’s been a recent investment in public spaces, boulevards, and bike lanes, Dubai generally isn’t considered a pedestrian city – but getting around is easy. Rent a car when you land. Grab a cab. Use a ride-sharing app. Take the metro (which pretty much only runs in a straight line). Prices aren’t exorbitant, and transportation is safe and clean.
Dining Out
Eating out is part of the culture here, and a bill for a good meal will either be shockingly low or cause you to lose your shirt. Also, being in a desert, the UAE imports a lot of its food. Though the options are endless, be on the lookout for restaurants that are community-led, focus on regional sourcing, or are culinary institutions (or some combination of all three).
Mosque Manners
Apart from the hotels that cater to a global population, Dubai is a place where modesty is still top of mind – though it’s considered relaxed compared to the majority of Muslim cities. Of course, this tends to restrict women’s fashion more than men’s; shorts and T-shirts are fine for the most part, but if you’re heading to a public beach or religious area, err on the side of caution and dress conservatively.
Yes, You Can Drink
Liquor licenses, while not ubiquitous, do exist in Dubai, frequently in the bars and restaurants of the bustling hotel scene. The fact that a portion of the locals don’t imbibe has done nothing to slow the pace of world-class wines and mixologists entering the city, so it’s safe to assume that an incredible cocktail or good bottle of vino is rarely out of arm’s reach.
TGI Thursday
This may come as a surprise: In Dubai, Fridays and Saturdays are considered the weekend, not Saturdays and Sundays. Since the work week ends on Thursday, expect for Thursday nights to be the liveliest times to get out on the town.
PDA’s a No-No
At the risk of sounding crass, we’d like to remind anyone traveling to Dubai to keep it in their pants. Kissing and other public displays of affection are taboo here – so much so that you may get a ticket for not obeying.
Can’t-Miss Adventures
Al Satwa
This old Dubai neighbourhood is generally less frequented by tourists, but it’s the local go-to for everything from specialty pantry items to rich, unique textiles. The walls of the old-school shops here are stacked floor-to-ceiling with reams of fabric; we love digging for random finds and bargaining on “last piece” pricing. The in-store tailors can whip up anything you want, even though some of their design interpretations can be – in our locals’ words – a bit eccentric.
Al Quaa
Technically this is in Abu Dhabi, but since you made it all the way out here, why not take the drive? Al Quaa is one of the darkest spots in the UAE desert and the best place to see the Milky Way at night. Experienced and adventurous campers can rent a 4x4 and head out there, following guidance by the astronomy club for optimal viewing – but if you need a little help in making it happen, never fear. There are plenty of desert tour services that will set you up and take care of everything you need to enjoy an otherworldly evening under the stars.
The Third Line Gallery
Shopping for art while traveling is perhaps the most logistically inconvenient yet essential pastime we insist on championing. If you feel the bug when you land in Dubai, check out The Third Line. Specializing in contemporary Middle Eastern art, the gallery was at the forefront of the region’s art boom and has built an inventory out of a truly incredible roster of artists, some of whom have become cross-cultural pop sensations. Pro tip: look for works by the likes of Hassan Hajjaj, Youssef Nabil, Sara Naim, Lamya Gargash, and Rana Begum.
When to Go
There’s a reason to visit Dubai year-round, but summers aren’t for the faint of heart. The ideal time to plan a visit or vacation is from November through March.
Featured Locals:
Sole
Founded in 2010, Sole is a leading platform for connecting communities through creativity and culture. The grassroots organization has built a rapidly growing community in Dubai through its annual Sole DXB cultural festival, which saw over 36,000 people from more than 60 countries attend the eighth annual edition in December 2019.
Sole also operates a boutique creative agency and publishes an annual print magazine. The creative agency has worked with numerous global brands including Gucci, Burberry, Saint Laurent, Farfetch, and Jordan Brand.
Sole’s Must-Dos
Paluto
The Filipino community is a pillar of this city – but their restaurants are often overlooked. Not so at Paluto. This seafood grill is located by the waterfront market in Deira; buy your seafood fresh and have it prepped and cleaned by the resident fishmonger. Paluto will then fry, grill, or stir fry it to perfection (if you give them enough time, they'll turn it into a soup) for you to sit by the water and enjoy.
Al Mallah
From family dining to late-night, after-hours grub, Lebanese fast food is a staple here. Al Mallah is an institution. Every night is busy, but tables turn quick. Most of us just shout out our orders from a cab window and eat it on the way back to wherever. The fresh juice will save your life.
More of Dubai
Arabian Tea House
Emirati food can be a culinary Rorschach Test, with anyone living within four hours of the city claiming the origin or influence as their own. They’re not wrong; Dubai’s history as a trading hub means that everyone who lives here brought a taste of home with them. To taste the flavors for yourself, check out Arabian Tea House. It’s possible to mistake it for a tourist trap – but don’t give in to your cynical side. The place serves good food, is unpretentious, and their hospitality is genuine and generous.
Selectshop FRAME
If you couldn’t cop those Undercovers where you live, Frame may be your salvation. Peter, the owner of this Japanese-heavy collectibles and clothing store, has an incredible eye and is one of the people expanding tastes across the region and trying new things. (It also doesn’t hurt that the space is attached to his ramen shop, Yui. Best bowl in the business.)
Cinema Akil
This is the only independent Art House cinema in the Middle East. The owner is Emirati and has dedicated herself to expanding the conversation around film in this region. The space is quirky and is located in Al Serkal Avenue, an arts and culture district that’s developed in the primarily industrial area of Al Quoz. During the winter months, Cinema Akil often moves screening outdoors in the Al Serkal courtyard. The food and chai menu beats any four-day-old hot dog at a mall theater.
